Whether you believe in ghosts has nothing to do with me. But for myself, after one too many off and hard to explain experiences, I believe in them. Because of that, I probably shouldn’t have gone to Linger in Denver when my coworker suggested we dine there after day of conference sessions, but I did anyway.
Located inside the former Olinger Mortuary building, the restaurant embraces its history rather than hiding from it. It’s woven into the décor and can be seen in the little details throughout the space. It’s the ones that quietly acknowledge what the building once was. It’s unusual, a little unexpected, and admittedly the reason why I had a nightmare after my visit.
Walking inside, the restaurant immediately feels different.
The lighting is low, the colors are deep, and despite the many people in the space there is a subtle stillness throughout the dining room that makes you instinctively slow down. It’s modern without losing its personality, and while the former mortuary history certainly carries in your mind, it never overshadows what the restaurant has become.
After settling in, I ordered a Shirley Temple ($4). I wasn’t in the mood for alcohol and wanted something more than just water and the sweet soda was my go-to before deciding on a few dishes to share.
Spending a few moments with the menu and talking it through with my coworker, I knew what I wanted. I started with the Mongolian BBQ Duck Bao ($7.50). It was a nice introduction to Linger as the duck was tender and rich while the koji pickled cucumber and scallions brought enough brightness to keep every bite balanced. It was one of those starters where you immediately think, “I should have ordered another.” Since I knew there was more coming to the table, I left it at one bun.
Next came the Scallion Pancake ($19) layered with five-spice short rib, pickled vegetables, cucumber, and Fresno aioli. The pancake provided a wonderful crispy foundation for the incredibly tender short rib. Between the richness of the meat and the freshness from the vegetables, every bite felt thoughtfully composed without becoming overly complicated. Did it seem small? Sure. But it was surprisingly just the right amount to satisfy my taste and hunger.
The Masala Dosa ($24) rounded out the meal beautifully. Filled with curried potato, asparagus, and mushrooms, then served alongside tamarind-date and coconut mint chutneys, it was comforting while still feeling vibrant. Each chutney added a completely different dimension, encouraging you to experiment with every bite. It’s the kind of dish that reminds you how rewarding it can be to order something outside your normal and to dive into it hands first.
As much as I enjoyed the food, I couldn’t ignore the atmosphere.
The restaurant carries a unique energy that naturally comes from the building’s history. I personally found it fascinating and at some point, I forgot about how the space began and focused more on how it has been transformed. That said, if you’re someone who’s especially sensitive to places with historic or spiritual significance, you may find yourself thinking about the building long after you’ve left. Whether that’s part of the appeal or something you’d rather avoid will likely depend on the person.
For me, though, Linger became memorable for a different reason.
Yes, it’s housed inside a former mortuary.
But after the novelty fades, what remains is a restaurant serving creative, globally inspired dishes in one of the most distinctive dining spaces I’ve visited. The history may bring you through the doors, but it’s the food that gives you a reason to come back.
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Address: 2030 W 30th Ave, Denver, CO 80211
Phone: (303) 993-3120
Hours: Monday through Thursday – 4:00 pm to 9:30 pm, Friday – 11:00 am to 2:00 pm and 4:00 pm to 10:30 pm, Saturday – 10:00 am to 2:00 pm and 5:00 pm to 10:30pm, and Sunday 10:00 am to 2:00 pm and 5:00 pm to 9:30 pm
Social: Website, Instagram, and Facebook.
