Last month during the Los Angeles Times’ month-long event, Food Bowl, the publication held a variety of insightful interviews and dinners to raise awareness about food waste, hunger, and sustainability. As a part of the numerous programs available, one I attended was a discussion pastrami. Maybe it didn’t have the social appeal and community focus that was in other discussions, but the subject matter and location piqued my interest. As the large-scale event neared its end, Langer’s was the location of the simply titled, Pastrami Panel.

The discussion was held in a reserved section of the busy restaurant. With the everyday sounds and commotion from the deli continuing as normal, the restaurant made little effort to adjust to the conversation that would soon begin. The cooks proceeded to clank knives across cutting boards to slice meat and make sandwiches. Waiters weaved through booths to deliver food shouting cautionary phrases to anyone who might get in the way. And diners didn’t quiet any part of their conversation on account of the panel at hand. The restaurant moved on its normal rotation and the people in the restaurant did the same; as they should have.

With the restaurant unchanged, the discussion began. The panel was moderated by Pulitzer Prize winner and LA Times Food critic, Jonathan Gold. Across from Gold sat Norm Langer, current owner and manager of Langer’s and Matt Giamela of RC Provision. Between the three men came moments where attendees learned about the history of Langer’s and a few unknown details about the restaurant. We were reminded of the birth of the restaurant by Norm’s father, Al, in 1947 and the way they achieved a James Beard Foundation Award. We later learned how the relationship with the Burbank specialty meat supplier, RC Provision came about. With the particulars set, the discussion took a turn for the interesting.

Listening to Gold ask questions about the type of meat delivered to Langer’s was exciting. Giamela and Langer both talked about the meat that is best for the restaurant. When it comes to pastrami they’ve found it’s best to use the navel plate from steers. Giamela took it a step further praising meat that is trimmed about 9-inches wide, 10-inches long, and with a thick eye to be the best grade that meets the standard of Langer’s. Giamela soon made the distinction between cows (females) and steer (neutered male) and their overall taste. “Cow pastrami and navel is rubbery and isn’t a product that is tasty”. Having an overall understanding of the type of meat best used in the restaurant was a great place to start, but it would not be where the conversation remained.

Gold then steered the discussion to what most of the listeners were dying to hear but probably didn’t want to ask. Thankfully, Gold did the job for us all and raised the question about if there was any truth to the rumors of a rivalry  between Langer’s in Los Angeles and Katz’s Delicatessen in New York. While the room didn’t come to a complete standstill to hear about the potential battle between Langer and Jake, current operations manager, it would be foolish to believe that we all didn’t lean in a little bit in anticipation to hear the response. Langer answered the question with a simple, “I am friendly with Jake” and in that moment it seemed like those who knew about the competition between the restaurants may have been the ones continuing the battle and not the current managers. Langer continued by adding, “There is no such thing as who is better. There’s a lot of different taste and texture.” With that, he did his best to close the idea of any comparison and superiority between the restaurants.

An hour further into the conversation and we were given more about the process of creating meat perfect for Langer’s, the influx of deli’s serving similar sandwiches to Langer’s here in Los Angeles, and how the restaurant continues to grow. At the end of it, everyone in attendance was given a better perspective on how the Langer’s is able to offer an amazing product of such great quality year after year. Before anyone could leave, Langer ended by adding, “I have to pay tribute to my father, Al Langer. This is his baby and all I’ve done is taken it to a new level”. It was a sweet and heartfelt note of appreciation that was the perfect sentiment to close the panel.

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